The Steelhead Angler

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Learn How to Become a Better Steelhead Angler

Do you want to learn about steelhead fishing, well the next several post will take you through the steps you need to know before you head out for the river.

We will be discussing what equipment you will need from the right rods, reels, lines, and baits. We will also discuss some of the most successful ways we have found to catch these sometimes frustrating fish.

Have you ever wondered why you can stand next to some one fishing the same hole using the same bait and casting into the same seam, and have them pull steelhead right out from under your nose. Well we are going to do our best to show you the techniques that we know work and have produced steelhead regularly for us.

Follows us as we discuss why many steelhead angler become frustrated at the sport and learn what you can do to become one of those seemingly lucky anglers that can catch fish while every one else is struggling just to get a hit.

My partners and I have been fishing for this magnificent species for over forty years now we have learned many tricks and patterns over this time that produce well for us and we are going to share them all with you.

For the serious steelhead angler we ill discuss drift fishing techniques, we will also show you how to use a more relaxing plunking technique that produces steelhead, we will explain them all. Learn how we set-up for float fishing which is probably the easiest to learn and even the most product method of catching steelhead today. We are going to share with you as much information as we can remember and after over forty years of steelhead and salmon fishing there are some items that we have not used for years but we believe will still produce fish when used. We hope to pull from our minds some of the first tactics we used for steelhead and we will be trying them again to see just how productive they still are once we can get back on the river. (Right now, here in Idaho the recent cold spell has pretty much iced us out.)

We will even tell you where you can find these fish around our area, and for those of you that just can not wait for the ice out we will tell you a couple of place you can try if you want to get out on the river soon. You may want to bookmark our site so you can follow us at least for the next couple of weeks while we discuss these steelhead-fishing techniques.

Stay tuned for Updates soon.

This article describes the basics of freshwater Steelhead and salmon fishing for the beginning angler. River drift fishing is probably the most common method used for steelhead and salmon. As and drift fishing salmon are very similar you can apply them when steelhead drifting and salmon drift fishing. It is intended only as a beginning, and is not meant to cover every aspect of salmon drift fishing, or steelhead drift fishing. After you get your feet wet, you can and should constantly search for additional information to improve your abilities and skills.

Freshwater salmon fishing and steelhead fishing can be done from the shore or a boat, and the drift fishing method described can be used either way. Boat fishing affords anglers some opportunities not available to the shore anglers.

Steelhead Drift Fishing And Salmon Drift Fishing:

These techniques will work well when either drift fishing for steelhead or drift fishing for salmon. Drift fishing is a common method used to catch both steelhead and salmon. The angler casts their line upstream, you then let the line drift down through the run or pool. Once your line reaches the end of the drift you then reel in the line to start the drifting process over again. Drift fishing is normally done from the shore or an anchored boat.

Generally, the idea is to have enough weight for your setup to bounce along the bottom, touching every foot or two. Ideally, it will drift at approximately the same speed the current is moving. More weight will slow down the speed at which your bait drifts downstream, and less weight will speed up the drift.

The best strategy is to work the entire run from close to the shore and working your way out with each following cast. Once you have covered all the water, you can reach from where you are standing move down a couple of steps and repeat the process. If you get a hit or catch a steelhead or salmon try to make a mental note of where you caste and where the fish hit. Steelhead and salmon use what are called runs so if you catch one it is likely that you will be able to catch more at the same location.

Figure 1. Diagram showing standard strategy for drift fishing a run or drift on a river.

When fishing in crowded conditions, you may simply have to work your way into a line of anglers and fish right where you are, without moving. Cast upstream at a 30-45 degree angle and let your bait bounce along until you reach a 45-30 degree angle downstream. Reel in and do it again. Your goal is to bounce your offering along the bottom until a fish picks it up with its mouth.

Beginning anglers often have trouble telling when a fish picks up the hook or when their gear has caught on a rock. Over time, you will develop a feel for the difference and learn when to set the hook and when to gently coax the gear off of the rocks. You should always remember that when in doubt, set the hook.

Typical drift fishing gear:

• For a good steelhead drift rod or salmon drift rod you will need a 8 ½ or 9 foot rod rated for 10-30 pound line.
• As for a drift fishing reel either a bait casting reel or a spinning reel will work I prefer a bait casting reel on large rivers and a spinning reel on smaller rivers and streams.
• For larger fish, like chinook salmon, use 20-25 pound line. Depending on where you are fishing you may need even heavier line.
• For steelhead drift fishing, you will be using 10-15 pound line most of the time.

You will find there is an endless variety of weights, lures, floats, and/or baits that anglers can use while drift fishing for salmon, and an even larger variety when drift fishing for steelhead.

A standard setup for drift fishing:

One example of a steelhead drift fishing rig using standard salmon drift fishing gear:

Before you head out drifting for steelhead please visit our shop at Steelhead Anglerwhere you will find all the steelhead gear and salmon gear you need. We have a number of way in which you can pay for your fishing tackle paypal, check or credit cards are accepted by most of our vendors with paypal being preferred by many.

Much like the picture above, while you are Steelhead fishing it is very helpful to have both, patience and wisdom.You arrive at your fishing spot, you want to charge right down, and get started fishing. That may not be the best option for a number of reasons. Charging right in could make your whole day unpleasant.

Take some time to look over the area, has it changed any since your last visit. Is there someone already fishing from your favorite rock? Has the ground been covered with snow or ice, or has it rained making the trail down to your fishing area slick and muddy. May be the river level has changed so much that the hole you fished a couple of days ago is not even there now. Any of these items may ruin your day if they catch you off guard.

I always like to look around the area before I jump into something that I was not expecting. Perhaps like the dog above I had to be burned a few times before I learned to do this before I start fishing.

It has always been easier for me to read the river when I am standing above the river then it is to try to read it when I am at the rivers edge. The seams will stand out, normally I can tell where the deeper portions are, and I can see rocks that are submerged that I would not see otherwise.

If some one is fishing there, I like to watch and see how they are fishing, where they are fishing, and if they are having any luck. I have fished several holes over the years from the same rock not knowing that had I moved up or down steam some I could have caught twice as many steelhead. By watching other you can learn a lot about a river, steelhead, and where and how to fish them. Spending ten minutes watching someone else, fish could save you hour’s maybe even days of trial and error.

Having the patience’s to look around, watch, and learn from other will gain you some wisdom that may help you become successful at steelhead fishing. Of course having lots of luck never hurt either.

Luhr Jensen developed the Luhr Jensen Hot Shot Side Planer several years ago. Using it gets your lure out in the river where the big ones are hiding. I got on the internet and ordered a couple of the Luhr Jensen Hot Shot Side Planers so I would have them the next time I was on the river. When they showed up, I still was not convinced that this was going to work. It seemed to me that although the unit is quite simple, there were many things that could go wrong. However, I was going to be just sitting around anyways right.

The instructions that come with the unit are easy enough to follow. I should thank the people at Luhr Jensen for taking the time to put together a very thorough instruction package. They not only explain how to set up the unit they give you a few pointers as to how and where to use them effectively.

The first time setting it up took me quit awhile or at least it seemed that way. You first have to put the unit together as it comes in three pieces. You have the main float body, the side arm, and the rudder. There are actually two rudders one for heavy current and one for lighter currents. You need to slip the arm onto the body so that it is pointing away from you and decide which rudder you will need depending on the river current.

Once you have the unit together you need to setup your line. You thread your line through the eye in the trigger arm and then through the eye in the bottom of the unit. You then slip on a bead onto your line making sure the bead is bigger then the eye at the back of the side planer and then tie on a swivel. This keeps the side planer from slipping down your line and slapping the steelhead in the face once you hook one.

Since I have been using these for a couple of seasons now instead of a bead I have been using a spin-glow float it is just a little something extra to get the steelheads attention. The final touch is the Hot Shot use about a three-foot leader and it is a good idea to use a leader that is lighter weight then your main line. It will keep you from losing everything should you happen to snag up or the steelhead makes a sudden run and breaks you off.

Once you have everything setup strip thirty to forty feet of line through your side planer. How much line you strip out is going to determine how deep you will be fishing. There is a tab on the front of your side plane wrap your line around this tab four times and set the trip arm to the opposite side of the rudder. This is the tricky part you need to keep you line free from tangling yet not let the current take your hot shot down stream. Keep tension from your rod tip to the trigger arm and place it the river. The current will now start taking the hot shot side planer out into the river. If you keep enough tension on the side planer, it will move across the river and pull the hot shot behind it. Once you reach the trough you want to fish you can set you rod in a rod holder sit back, relax, and wait for a steelhead to come swimming by.

I like to use a medium to a medium heavy Steelhead rod with this setup it will give you the power you need for a good hook set. It will also help in keeping your line up out of the river between the side planer and the tip of your rod.

Plastic worms are very popular in British Columbia and they are beginning to catch on here in the U.S.This technique uses the same type of plastic worms that bass anglers have been using for quit some time now. Plastic worms in bubble gum, pink, oranges and reds are a very effective steelhead fishing bait. You can find some that are impregnated with sea salt those are my preference when I am choosing a plastic worm for steelhead bait.

These worms, usually fished with a bobber similar to jig fishing. You cast your offering upstream and let it float down naturally through the water. You fish the same type of water as with jig fishing. Concentrate on seams and pockets you believe to be holding fish. As with jig, fishing the ripples on the water causes the soft plastic worm to flutter and wiggle. This life like action is often just too much for a steelhead to resist.

Depth is critical when setting your bobber stop. Setting your bobber stop so that your weight is just off the bottom may take a couple of cast. When fishing a hole that you are not sure of the depth it is better to start set to high and then lower 12 to 18 inches with each cast. Once you float starts to bounce you know you are to deep reel in and raise your float about 12 inches and you are ready to fish. You will want your bait to be just above the fish’s nose.

Plastics can also be fished using the drift fishing method.
The trick here is adding just enough weight so you bounce off the bottom while drifting. I believe many anglers use about twice as much weight as they should. This will not only end up getting them snagged more often, it does not allow the bait to be presented in a natural way. They do end up catching a few steelhead however; they would do much better if they used less weight. If you feel your weight dragging the bottom, it is too much you want it to bounce. You should feel a tap, tap pause tap, tap pause when drift fishing.

This technique is affective on STEELHEAD, SALMON & TROUT

Drift fishing is easy, fun and effective. Many anglers have used the technique over the years. This technique only gains in popularity as more and more streams across the country are supporting trout, steelhead and salmon runs. Whether a beginner or a more experienced angler, this article will help, you become even more successful using the drift fishing method of fishing.

One of the most important, things you can do to improve your fishing success, is to maintain razor sharp hooks on your lures at all times. A fine-toothed file such as Luhr Jensen’s Sharp Hook File^TM is the absolute best hook-sharpening tool available. You hold it parallel to the hook point and with gentle, one-way strokes; remove a small amount of metal on at least two sides of the point. This will create a point with a razor-like cutting edge. Keep the file clean and dry and occasionally spray it with a non-corrosive lubricant such as WD-40. Sharp Hook Files^TM are available in 5 1/2′ x 3/4″ or 4 1/4″ x 5/8″ sizes.
© Luhr Jensen & Sons, Inc.

Typical drift fishing waters consist of a series of pools and rapids, with the pools (drifts) holding feeding, resting or migrating fish. Drifting lures through these pool areas, with the drift fishing technique, will often produce excellent results. The basic drift fishing technique consists of casting across and upstream, and then allowing your drift bobber and accompanying sinker to drift naturally downstream in the current, the sinker gently bouncing along the bottom. When your lure has drifted back near the bank, it is reeled in and another cast and drift made.

Buoyant drift bobbers simulate fish egg clusters, shrimp or other natural baits. Corkies, Sammie’s, and Spin-n-glows are some of the more common ones used. Their success is attributed to their color, action and buoyancy as they are drifted naturally along the bottom through fish-holding water.

There are scores of ways to add weight ahead of a drift bobber. Pencil lead, either solid or hollow core, is the most popular and has proved both economical and easy to use.

Some examples are depicted below:

Solid pencil lead is best fastened to your line using a Lead Cinch^TM, which consists of a three-way swivel and a length of surgical tubing. Your main line is tied to one end of the swivel, leader and bobber to the other end and a section of pencil lead inserted into the Lead Cinch^TM (surgical tubing). If the lead becomes snagged, it will pull away from the tubing and your drift bobber and tubing can be retrieved.

LEAD CINCH^TM: Surgical tubing and swivel rig for holding and attaching solid pencil lead. It comes ready to tie on and is available in three different diameters to fit all popular lead sizes.

LEAD TIP: Your pencil lead should always hang straight, as a bent or crooked piece of lead will often result in twisting or tangling of your line.

One of the big tricks to successful drift fishing is to select just the right amount of weight for the water you are fishing. A weight that is too heavy will snag easily while one that is too light will not keep your drift bobber near the bottom where the fish are. The ideal weight is one that results in a tap-tap-skip action as it makes regular contact with the bottom and then rises a bit before hitting again.

Experienced drift anglers usually start working an unknown drift with a 2 1/2- to 3-inch piece of pencil lead. After making a drift or two, they know if they need to shorten it or lengthen it until the drift feels just right with that tap-tap-skip action.

Hollow pencil lead is best fastened by crimping it to a short leader dropped from a barrel swivel as shown in the illustrations. If this lead becomes snagged, a sharp pull will free the lead from the drop leader and your drift bobber, leader and swivel can normally be retrieved.

Pencil lead comes in coils or long sections so you can cut off the desired amount. Most lead available through sport shops comes in diameters of 1/8, 3/16, and 1/4 inch.

Successful drift fishing requires that your line be close to the bottom. Hence, it is important to use a heavier line than you would ordinarily select for lake fishing, as it will have to take the added bottom-scraping abrasion that comes with drifting. We recommend that you use a premium quality, monofilament line, such as Trilene XT® or Berkley® Big Game.

There are three instinctive reasons a fish bites a drift bobber: It is either hungry, protecting its territory or curious. Although strikes can be hard, they are often almost undetectable especially for the novice angler. Some fish will only lightly mouth a bobber and this kind of “take” is very difficult to discern from the lure’s ordinary bottom tapping. Many fish are lost or not hooked simply because the angler just cannot detect these soft pickups. There are, however, two things you can do which will help you seize these light-biters: Use razor-sharp hooks and add some yarn below your bobber.

Sharp hooks are critical no matter what kind of fishing you do, but they become even more important when trying to hook light-biting fish while drift fishing. A fish will have a great deal of difficulty getting a razor-sharp hook out if its mouth without it sinking in somewhere. Once a sharp point catches, every move the fish makes to expel it will only drive it deeper and you will feel a harder “hit” as the fish attempts to throw it.

Yarn is your second edge for hooking light-biters. The addition of a tuft of colorful yarn just ahead of your hook and below the drift bobber will add color and contrast to your lure; it will also make it very difficult for a fish to spit out the hook. Once taken, the yarn tangles in the fish’s teeth and every effort to get rid of the lure will send another signal to you to set the hook.

Drift anglers use yarn to give their lures added appeal and color. By tying a tuft on the hook itself, or just below the bobber so as not to interfere with its action, you will often increase a bobber’s effectiveness. As indicated earlier, yarn also can catch in the teeth of fish, allowing you extra time to feel the “set” and set the hook.

Setting up to jig fish is a simple process. All you need is your favorite jig, a float and enough added weight to balance your float.

To weight your float and jig, you have a choice of pencil lead, egg sinker or a slinky. My favorite weight system is the egg sinker in line with my float and jig. The type of weight you use is really a matter of personal preference though. The important part is that the combined weight of your jig and weight allows your float to ride at the proper level in the river. Most floats come with a colored band near the top this is how much of the float that should protrude above the water.

Selecting the best rod and reel combination for steelhead jig fishing, you again must consider the type of water you intend to fish, and the size of jigs that will work best under those conditions. For tossing jigs weighing 1/4 ounce and more, a level wind reel, or bait casting reel as many call it I feel makes the best choice. I do not have any personal favorite as to reel models the Abu Garcia Ambassadeur 5600AB (anti-backlash) reel may make a good choice if you are afraid of the dreaded birds nest that are often associated with a bait casting reel. If you find yourself fishing tiny jigs with equally small floats and weights, you may find using a spinning reel just a little easier to cast.

Rods for fishing jigs must be long and light. Long rods are necessary to help keep your line off the water as your float drifts its way downstream. Light rods are needed to avoid fatigue over a long season. I like a bait casting rod in the ten to twelve foot range designed for six to twelve pound test lines when fishing larger rivers. On the smaller steams, I prefer a spinning rod in the seven to eight foot length. If you decide to go with a spinning rod, choose one with a slow action rated for 6 to 15 pound test lines.

The choice of a jig is a personal preference. Here are several thoughts to help you with this choice. In low clear water use small jigs in pale shades. Faded pinks, tan, and pale browns are my favorite clear water jig colors. Choose jigs in the 1/32 to 1/8 ounce size range when fishing clear water. If you are going to be fishing big rivers with strong flows, I prefer larger jigs and bright colors. My favorite jig for big water is hot pink, 1/4 ounce weight. Chartreuse, black, orange and black, red and white are others that I like to use. It is always a good idea to try an assortment of colors, as you will find that a color that works well where you normally fish may not be as good when fishing other areas.

You can find more information on setting up for jig fishing HERE

It is easier to discuss the times and places where jigs do not work well than it is to list all the times they will work.  The steelhead jig relies mainly on color and action to trigger a strike.  Therefore, you can expect them to perform poorly in low visibility water.  When the visibility is less than two feet it is time to switch to some other type of lure or bait.  For similar reasons jigs do not work well in the fast pockets of water in the rivers.  In almost every other steelheading water, jigs will prove to be deadly.  

Jigs come into their own in slow moving or still water.  Which in my opinion is some of the hardest spots to fish for a steelhead with the conventional drifting techniques?  With the wiggle of marabou or rabbit fur combined with a small dab of bait or scent, jigs are deadly.  Jigs are the most effective steelhead lure you can use in slow or still water.  

Jigs also work well in moderate to fast currents as long as the water has good visibility.  In clear water, nothing beats tiny jigs.  When tipped with a single egg, a piece of earthworm, or a piece of shrimp they become deadly.  In conditions most of us find ourselves fishing, the two to ten foot deep-water jigs work extremely well.  Moreover, in a current that is moving at two to four knots the jig will prove to be irresistible to steelhead.  As your float bounces along in the wavy surface of the water, the jig mirrors that action right in the heart of the steelhead’s den.  Few steelhead can resist a brightly colored bit of marabou or rabbit fur that dips and swoops through their living room.  Tip your jig with a small piece of shrimp or worm and it is a snack that they find hard to refuse. 

I will not go steelhead fishing without the equipment I need to setup for jig fishing.  It has proven itself to me repeatedly.  Jig fishing is also a great way to start someone out steelhead fishing if they have never been steelhead fishing before.  You set them up with a jig show them where they need to drift and tell them that when the float goes under they need to set the hook.

When fishing for steelhead in large bodies of water pulling plugs is a deadly steelhead fishing technique. This technique works well throughout the season and is one that I prefer when the water temperatures fall and the steelhead become sluggish. You are able to keep this plug waving around in front of them longer and encouraging a strike. In order for this to work for you, it is important that you know where their holding spots are or at least what a holding spot would look like. You could spend the day drifting your plug through nothing but open water if you are not familiar with steelheads habits and knowing where they like to hold is necessary in order for pulling plugs to be successful.

Some of the popular plugs here in Oregon, Washington and Idaho include:
• Hotshots,
• Wiggle Warts,
• Tadpollys,
• Kwikfish,
• Flatfish,

Just about any bass plug that dives from six to fifteen feet and is available in good steelhead colors will work for steelhead. Hotshots and Wiggle Warts would be my first choice if you were just starting out or on a tight budget.

Some of my favorite colors are red, blue/silver, chartreuse/silver, red/white, and bright blue. The angler should have several colors to use throughout the day, as different colors seem to be preferred at times by that crazy steelhead.

Plugs are commonly used from a jetsled or driftboat. However, side plane drifters are also becoming popular throughout the area. You begin at the top or upstream portion of steelhead holding water and backing down slowly trying to keep the plug in the steelhead face. Usually they will get irritated when the rattling plug is near pushing them out of where they want to be and they will slam it violently.

Pulling plugs is a very exciting way to spend the day on the river and when the fish are active, it will keep you in suspense waiting for one of those violent strikes that are so common when fishing this way. If you ever have a chance, I recommend giving pulling a pug a try.

Winter Steelhead Fishing Requires Something Special Getting up on a Winter morning to go Steelheading is a cold affair. The air is cold, the water is cold, your fingers are cold. Most of all the Steelhead are more than a little cold and sleepy. Combine this with faster flows and water that is every shade of murky and you have a recipe for not catching any fish. So what is the go-to lure when things are cold and dark? Spinners of course.

Spinners Have an Advantage in Dark Water Winter rain or snow melt can turn the rivers murky and swift. This means the fish can’t see lures as well, and often times the Steelhead will have difficulty locating a scent trail unless it is right in front of them. What they can feel though is vibration. Even admit all the turbulence in the rivers, fish can pick up on the thrumming of a spinner chopping its way through the water.

Even in Low Water Spinners Work Between rain storms, or when it is all falling as snow, water levels can drop and clear up. This is still a great opportunity to use spinners. Simply down size the lure and be aware that as the water clears the fish can see you again! If your favorite fish holding spot is full of pretty clear water, it is time to try the ‘casting up stream’ technique featured below.

Which Spinner to Use Many factors affect which spinner to use, but generally speaking a size #3 through #5 will work for Winter conditions. The Color to use is a topic of much debate. In very dark and stained water, a silver body and blade that put out the maximum flash is probably a safe bet, as there is less chance of spooking the fish. Other good options for dark water are bright orange and greens. As the water clears and visibility improves you can move to Brass colored lures or dark bodied spinners with a flash of color like Wyld Edge’s Headbanger series

How to Fish Those Spinners There are three basic ways to fish spinners.

• Casting Up Stream - This is the hardest to master, but allows you to fish deeper. Simply cast up stream, flip your bail over and retrieve just fast enough to keep your blade spinning. The idea is to keep the spinner moving and up off the bottom, but not pull it in so fast that the fish won’t follow it.
• Across the Stream - A standard presentation, casting across the flow, allowing the lure to sink and then using a steady retrieve to keep it up out of the rocks.
• Flipping into Rips - A favorite of mine, flip your spinner into the rip at the edge of a pool and let the current carry it along. Try to follow the edge of the faster water with your spinner and then retrieve slowly. Stay alert though because fish will follow lures presented this way a long ways and may surprise you with a strike when you are about to pull it out of the water.

Know Your Water Regardless of where you fish and what season, this holds true. Many true Steelheaders will also tell you to fish the waters closest to you until you know every hiding spot for Steelhead regardless of the water levels. Remember to fish the edges and don’t forget the water under your feet. The faster and darker the water, the more likely they fish are to be tucked in along the edges hiding under banks, and behind rocks.

Cover the Water Remembering that the water is murky, even a spinner can only pull fish from so far, so don’t just stand in one spot. Shai Plummer of Wyld Edge Outfitters sums it up like this:

“You can’t catch fish if you are not fishing where they are at. When I am on the river I fish from the bank and I am constantly moving even if it is only a couple of feet at a time. With spinfishing a good general rule is that if you have made four to five casts to one spot , give up on it and move on , unless you see activity that shows you that there are fish there. Fish as many holes as you can and cover them well.” So keep moving! As soon as you have covered an area take a step and start again. One good rule of thumb is to move as far between casts as you can see into the water.

Fish, Fish, Fish! Steelheading takes practice and patience, and there is nothing else that can compare to just putting in time with your line in the water. If you would like some more reading on Steelhead fishing in the Northwest you can visit Wyld Edge’s guide to Steelhead fishing with spinners, or Fishing with Cliff’s reading section and check out a couple the books there devoted to Steelheading!

Chris Cliff is a long time fisherman that hails from the remote lands of Northern Idaho, but has now moved to the big city. He and his crew fish the waters of the Northwest filming episodes of their own web based fishing show ‘Fishing with Cliff’. You can find it at http://www.FishingWithCliff.com/ and features more great articles, photos, links and of course episodes of their show. Think of it as a fishing show crossed with reality TV.

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